INFO:馬恩田園 法國廚房 Aux Champs Sur Marne Cuisine Francaise
ADD:北市松山區興安區161號
TEL:(02)2547-2423 (每周日休)
BIZ HOURS : 11:30~14:00;18:30~21:00
法國人的耶誕節是不吃火雞的,十個法國人會有九個半這樣告訴你─「火雞是美國人的玩意兒!」傳統的法國耶誕,必有一份匯集了各式魚鮮貝類的「海鮮開胃盤」,僅以檸檬或紅酒醋簡單調味,正值產季的生蠔是主角外,還有干貝、魚子醬、燻鮭魚上等魚料,提起這道,可是會讓法國人講得口水橫流。受限於價格和地理條件等差異,台灣目前恐怕還沒有法式餐廳會端出這樣一份膽固醇破表的開胃菜。
至於如法國駐台代表,以及一票在台灣生根的法國圈裡,有個大家心目中一致認同的「馬恩田園」法式餐廳,即使吃不到海鮮盤,但強調北法的正統手藝,不少扎實的傳統菜餚還是讓他們在年節時得以一解鄉愁。
法國人過耶誕,必定是在家準備當晚的菜色;就如同中國農曆年節時,全家人會一起張羅平常雖吃得到、卻很耗功夫的頭盤大菜般,型式是很接近的。華裔法籍主廚陳維毅Fr’ederic’說,「海鮮盤吃盡興後,接續的就是鴨肝、鵝肝滋味較濃郁的前主菜,或北法少不了的鹿肉、鵪鶉、珠雞、鴨等野味。」由於野味調理極靠火侯,能做到外酥內嫩不乾柴,也是主廚表現法式烹調刁鑽手法的絕佳機會;在「馬恩田園」享用野味,曾服務過英女皇與法國總理密特朗的Fr’ederic’而言,自然也是必有的菜式。
味道不只是文化,也是身體記憶人生的方式之一;幾道看似樸實不華的菜色,主廚Fr’ederic’ 不只放進了調味,藉由一道醬汁、一縷氣味,點滴融入他長期浸淫諾曼地掌廚時的人情風味,轉化成複雜的層次在舌上依序湧現。
以盛產蘋果知名的諾曼第,也大量被Fr’ederic’運用在菜色中表現純正北法風情;滋味較鵝肝更濃郁、油脂卻較少的鴨肝,Fr’ederic’巧妙地以火燒灼鴨肝與蘋果白蘭地醬汁,微酸帶甜的蘋果,將油膩豐厚的鴨肝平衡地正好,宛如奶油般在口裡綿滑地化開。另外,以野味為主菜的「鴨胸」,鴨鮮味濃卻不過腥,雖不若法國當地野味的濃重,但很符合台灣人能接受的口感,也是讓Fr’ederic’屢受稱讚得一道經典菜式。
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